Monday, 14 July 2008

Gymslip influences

Another couple of examples of the design influences behind the gymslips described in various places within the INSTITUTIONALISED series. The one depicted on the left I found at
(shame about the hat) the origin of the one on the left is unknown to me.
Neither is a perfect example unfortunately but if one imagines the bodice to have a rounded neck line, to taper in a little more sharply in towards the waistband and to be closely tailored so to allow for the swell of the bust and to fasten at the shoulders by three buttons on each side , it is a start.
The waist band would be perhaps of twice the width of that shown on the left and quite tightly fitting. The skirt would have the flare of that shown on the right on the right but incorporating sharply-defined knife pleats that would begin their spread just after the curve of the hips, over which the skirt would be fitted ;in this case there may or may not be in elasticated webbing purse belt worn.
Alternatively, in some instances the skirt would be of a tailored panelled design and closely fitted around the hips and bottom, coming to perhaps midthigh or just above the knee, depending on its use and the situation depicted, in which case the design would incorporate its own belt, the latter fasting at the front with two wide spread buttons.
A suitable badge would be embroidered ( not sewn on) on the centre top of the bodice, just below the neck line, in the case of the style incorporating the knife pleated skirt. The fitted skirt style would have the badge mirrored in a smaller form, embroidered at a jaunty 45° angle just above the hemline.
Depending on the situation and the intended use, the fabric would be polyester or a finely woven serge and fully lined with a smooth nylon, which would be of a satin finish in the case of the serge style.

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